Well upon returning from Hawaii and relaxing, I needed a project to keep me busy so I decided to rip apart one of my bathrooms in my Missoula house, and have plumbers update the plumbing and install a new larger capacity water heater.

New hot water heater

This is a photo of the bathroom before tearing it apart. The original plan was to replace the linoleum floor, move the toilet next to the tub and install a new vanity/sink. We were going to remove the existing cabinets and simply place a large mirror on the wall.

Original bathroom - note vanity next to tub and toilet by door (we reversed it).

Upon removing the old toilet and vanity, the plumbers spent nearly 2 days re-routing and updating all the pipes, getting everything up to today’s code and roughing in the hookups for the new toilet, shower (raised fixtures and shower head to 6′4″). I removed the old linoleum floor to find water damaged particle board on top of the 3/4″ sub-floor. We ripped up the top layer particle board and I cut/installed sub-floor-grade tongue and groove 3/4″ plywood.

Old sub-floor after removing linoleum.

New sub-floor.

After I installed the new sub-floor, the plumbers finished roughing out the pipes and fixtures so I could proceed with removing the cabinets and install new drywall (waterproof mortar board around the tub and moisture resistant for other walls). Upon ripping out the cabinets, soffit and old drywall we decided why not install a new tub too. Everything in the bathroom would be new except that.

We visited the local Kohler showroom and picked out a new tub. When they delivered the new tub, we were ready to remove the old one so they took it away for me. We noted that the old particle board sub-floor (that was beneath the old tub) should be replaced as well. I ripped out the old floor and replaced it, snapping in another sheet of the tongue and groove plywood floor.

Tub removed with old sub-floor.

We also noticed that there was mold growing around the old window sil, and the insulation should be replaced. I decided to rebuild the wall, tear out the insulation and replace the window with glass block spanning the width of the bathroom, providing security, an updated look and more light.

Nailing down the new sub-floor.

We bought lumber, drywall, glass block, tile, tools and other supplies to get as much done this weekend before the inspection on tuesday. Instead of linoleum, as we have everything torn apart and brand new flooring, we opted for Italian marble floors. This will be my first time installing tile but I did assist my aunt when I was younger - the hardest part will be making the cuts.

Tomorrow I will remove the old window, install a new header to span the width of the bathroom and frame out the rough opening for the glass block. It will be 5′ wide and 2′ tall with new decorative tile all around when we’re done. I will also be moving and re-wiring the outlets and installing a ceiling vent/fan and add switches and wiring for new wall lighting.

To be continued …

Today I cut out the studs, sealed up original wood with primer/sealer, removed old header and cut out my holes for the new glass block. I installed a new header and framed out the opening. We have a barbecue to attend this evening but afterwards, I may work downstairs and miter and cut all of the channels for the glass block, possibly installing some tonight.

Outside wall with studs cut out.

Old header removed (what a chore) and old wood sealed.

New header installed and opening cut and framed out for new glass block.

View from the outside, temporarily with plastic barrier while we go hang with friends.

Tomorrow I will have the glass block installed, new bathtub installed and should get a lot of the mortar board and drywall installed. I have to leave the wall with all the plumbing exposed until Tuesday for inspectors, but I may start on the tiling or begin making my cuts Monday.

To be continued …

Sunday and Monday I finished the glass block installation, insulation, installing the new tub and updating some of the electrical wiring and installing a ceiling fan. I had hoped to start on drywall but the ceiling fan installation was less than easy requiring 2 trips to the attic, climbing around in very tight spaces with 6 inches of blown in insulation on top of the rolled insulation. To make things worse, while I was cutting the hole in the roof we realized that the vent piping kit was missing a key piece that went between the roof vent and piping in the attic.

I’m pleased to say that it all worked out and the first attempt at flipping the switch resulted in a working ceiling fan. Photos of progress thus far are below. Next steps are to pass inspection with the city, then install all the drywall. We will then tape, sand and texture the drywall (less the mortarboard parts) and start on the marble tile floor. Thereafter, install vanity, toilet and fixtures and proceed to tile the shower area and tidy up any left over painting.

After installing and glueing in the frame for the glass block, I learned that the rough opening measurements were for a pre-built glass block window. Luckily they had accounted for a 3/4″ casing so I simply added another stud across the top of the frame and it was a perfect fit - I even managed to salvage the original frame.

After installing the glass block and sealing it with silicone, I installed the new insulation.

We then installed the new tub, covering it with towels and plastic to protect the surface while the rest of the work goes on.

I cut a hole in the ceiling and removed the old light fixture. I prepared the wiring for the new ceiling fan installation prior to climbing into the attic to cut the hole in the roof for the venting.

Ceiling fan housing installed. Imagine crawling through insulation in a 16″ space with only a foot 1/2 of headroom and screwing in fasteners to hold this in place, then wiring it in and hooking up vent pipe. All of the installation instructions tout how easy it is, but that is when the house is being built, not after the fact. It was a pain to say the least.

New roof vent for ceiling fan.

New ceiling fan with cover attached.

To be continued …

Upon receiving approval from the inspector, I proceeded to install the drywall and finish up the electrical, installing a new GFCI outlet, two switches and pre-wiring for a wall light above the mirror. The only piece of drywall remaining is the difficult mortar board with cuts around the bath fixtures (time consuming). Once I have that piece installed, I can tape, mud and sand the walls, applying texture to the non-tiled surfaces.

I will dry fit the marble tile and mark the tiles that need cutting, then either have Home Depot make the cuts for me or borrow/rent a wet saw. Once I have all the pieces ready, I’ll begin laying down mortar and installing the marble tile floor (likely this weekend). After the floor is in, I’ll proceed to tile the bath area. Early to mid next week I can call the plumbers back to install our vanity and toilet to finish out the job.

Mortar board and moisture-resistant drywall installed around the new tub.

New GFCI outlet and pre-wiring for wall lighting.

I replaced the single light switch (which now controlled the fan) with a double-gang box and two switches. The first switch now will control the wall lighting (once we buy some we like) and the inner switch now controls the fan.

New moisture-resistant drywall installed. I still have to make the cuts for bath fixtures in the final two pieces of mortar board around the shower.

Instead of piecing together multiple leftovers of mortar board, I am going to purchase one more sheet so the wall with fixtures will be covered with two solid pieces (less chance for leaks). I will buy that sheet tomorrow but beforehand, I plan to lay out my tile so I can mark the pieces that need cuts (around toilet) and around the floor vent for heat/air.

To be continued …

All of the drywall and mortar board is now installed. It took over an hour to properly measure and cut the one piece of mortar board (wonder board) given I opted to use a single sheet for the cutout around the tub and bath fixtures. I chose this to minimize the possibility of any leaks in the future.

Difficult cuts around tub and fixtures. With mortar board, you must measure and cut out the fiberglass on both sides, then knock out the cuts with a hammer or chisel. I used a metal file and hammer. After making the cut around the tub and the cutout for the faucet, I carried the board into the bathroom to make final measurements and ensure a proper fit. I then carried the board back outside and made the final cutout.

Bath/shower area with new drywall and mortar board installed.

A trick with normal drywall, or sheetrock, when cutting out around fixtures I like to cut the sheet to size and then use white-out and wet the surface of the pipes. I then push the sheet against the pipes so they mark out where they reside. Using a jab saw or your utility knife, you can then proceed to cut out the holes for pipes, etc.

Next I will tape and mud the seams between the sheets of drywall and then sand the surface before applying texture to the non-tiled (mortar board) sheets. We will likely then tile the floor and bath surface, then paint and finally have all the fixtures, vanity and toilet installed.

To be continued …

Operation drywall. Tape, mud, sand, mud, sand, texture, sand, primer, paint, paint. Somewhere in between, clean, clean, clean.

Well I used fiberglass mesh drywall tape instead of the traditional paper. It was nice because I didn’t have to pre-mud the joints as the tape had adhesive back. After applying the tape, I used joint compound to fill in any screw holes and seal the tape on all the seams. As the new drywall was matching up with old drywall, the seams didn’t match up exactly so I had to build up the ceiling to make it all level.

Taped up seams with fiberglass mesh.

Walls with joint compound (drywall mud) over seams and screw holes, sanded and prepared for texture.

I also patched a hole in the existing drywall where the old toilet paper dispenser was. There are many ways to do this but I opted to use a piece of the old drywall that was cut elsewhere. I cut it about 1/2 in larger than the hole on all sides, then cut back the gypsum (chalky stuff) on the non-painted surface to fit in the hole (see photos). Once I placed it in the hole, I traced around the outer edge and cut away the PAPER ONLY on the wall so the new piece would fit flush. After that, I simply used two strips of the mesh tape in a cross pattern to hold in place, applying joint compound (mud).

Toilet paper dispenser hole.

Piece of drywall cut to replace hole.

New piece of drywall patch with mesh tape.

Mud applied to patched area and smoothed out. All you have to do is sand after it’s dry and then apply texture.

While waiting for the patch hole and last layer of patch to the ceiling (to level the surface), I dry fitted the marble tile to draw lines for my cuts. Instead of purchasing a $400 wet saw, or renting one, I opted to draw my cuts on the pieces and take them into Home Depot. They charge $0.50/cut so 13 tiles that needed cuts cost only $6.50. As we needed to pick up primer and paint, we had the tiles cut and I layed them out to ensure everything fit properly.

I layed out the marble tile floor to first dry fit it prior to applying mortar to the floor and setting the tiles. I called in two inspectors to check out the job and they approved the work.

Tomorrow I will remove the tiles and apply texture to the walls. We will then primer and paint them. Thereafter, I set the tiles and let them set up for 24 hours prior to applying grout. I hope to have everything in by wednesday and to have our vanity, toilet and shower fixtures installed Thursday.

Texture, paint and begin to tile.

I used spray texture as the bathroom wasn’t that large. It took 3 cans at $13 each; a little pricey but cheap in comparison with a 2-gallon textured primer or renting a spray gun or purchasing texture roller.

After texturing the wall, we primered the entire bathroom to seal all the new drywall and create a nice uniform surface for the paint to be applied to. We then painted the walls with the creme color and let it dry for a day before taping off and applying the purple color on the accent wall.

Purple accent wall complete. We let it all dry for a day and then planned out tile work.

After agreeing on the tile for the shower, we purchased materials and formulated a plan for laying out the tile for the shower area. I leveraged my Christmas present, a laser-leveler, to draw my square lines and a 4′ level to draw my plumb lines. I used a Sharpie marker instead of chalk lines.

The next day I mixed up a batch of the mortar to set the tile. The first few tiles slid slightly so I used painters tape to hold them in place and set up to provide an anchor point for the rest of the tiles.

Materials for tiling and bucket of hand-mixed thinset mortar.

Painter’s tape holding first section of tiles in place to set up.

I then began adding rows of tiles on the outside wall for all pieces that didn’t need cuts.

I proceeded to use up the rest of the mortar I mixed up placing a section of tiles on the adjacent wall.

I will be mixing up some more mortar today (after work) and place all the tiles I can that don’t need cuts. I will then take measurements on cuts and round up the remaining tile and have Home Depot cut the pieces on their wet saw. The thinset mortar seems to last 1.5-2 hours in the bucket before really setting up so if I work quickly on the non-cuts, I should be able to return with the cut pieces and use the same mortar?

I completed tiling the shower/bath area, after two trips to Home Depot for a couple more decorative tiles and some cuts. For the entire bathroom I spent only $30 in cutting charges for all the shower tiles (ceramic) and floor tiles (marble). This is far cheaper than renting and a lot less risky given they use an $800 wet saw and do it for a living. Of course you need to be very accurate with your measurements to make it all work. Now I’m waiting 2 days for all the mortar to set up before applying grout to the tiled surfaces.

After deciding on how to lay out the remaining tiles I began my second day of tiling, applying the mortar to the wallboard ensuring the trowel grooves all go in the same direction.

Tiled the entire shower area and opted to trim out entire window with tile.

Here is the bathroom with the new shower tiles set and marble floor tiles set. I will wait 2 days before applying grout to both, then another 2 days before applying sealer. Then I can install toilet, vanity and fixtures.

Monday the lighting arrives (ordered online) so I will wire that up or perhaps wait until everything is installed to ensure it is lined up with vanity and mirror???

Again, the inspectors approved the work - this time the floor is not going anywhere!

UPDATED (Wednesday 12:42 am - June 14)

GROUTING TILE:
I found a couple websites with instructions on applying grout to tile. In addition, the bag of grout included instructions. In short, you should mix only enough so you can work the space as things move a little faster than with mortar. I used sanded grout which simply requires adding water. To get the creamy peanut butter consistency, I added 1/2 quart of cool, clean water to the bucket. I then used a plastic 8 oz. dixie cup and scooped 3 heaping cups full of grout mixture and hand-mixed until a creamy paste using a plastic scraper (use anything or spend money on a mixer).

Tools you need in addition to the grout, water and bucket include a sponge (like you wash your car with) and a rubber grout float.

Grout mixture in bucket with rubber grout float.

I read and was told to smear the grout over the tiles in an X motion (diagonally from side to side) to allow the grout to fill in spaces between the tiles. I found that it wasn’t that easy or I pressed too hard to jam grout in there because it often pulled some back out as I was going. I adapted my style to ensure grout filled the spaces and by the end got good enough that I could mix less and less and cover more space without as much waste (there is a LOT of waste and mess afterwards).

Grout filled into spaces between tiles - see all the waste that falls to the floor

About 15-20 minutes after you fill in the spaces with the grout, in a similar X pattern use the float to scrape off excess grout (hold at 90 degree angle and be sure NOT to scrape along grout lines - do it diagonally to ensure the grout stays in the spaces).

After this, wait another 15 minutes or so, then use your lightly damp (CLEAN) sponge and rub in small circular motion to smooth out the grout and wipe of excess from the tiles. You may need to flip over your sponge or clean it out a couple times during this process. Afterwards, you will see a film or haze appear on the tile. DONT worry about the haze and you can revisit and wipe again with the clean sponge in a couple hours to remove some of the grout haze.

Grout haze over tiled surface after sponge application. WAIT about 1.5-2 hours before attempting to wipe it off, again leveraging a damp, clean sponge.

Grout lines after setting up and wiping again with sponge (next day). It is recommended that once you get to this point, wait another day or two before applying a penetrating sealer. Note that ever 2 tiles (each way) I added some accent tiles with an “S” for what else, Sparr. It’s subtle but gives us a custom touch.

Here is what the shower now looks like with new tile and grout applied. Later this week I’ll apply sealer and then 2-3 days later (giving as much time as possible) we’ll potentially touch up some paint (if needed) and then install bath fixtures, toilet, vanity, sink, mirror and new wall lighting.

Although Goomzee is still my baby, RSI Global has been taking on more venture projects since early 2005. I’m pleased to announce the launch of one of them, a yearlong engagement called Sportsmen’s Access (www.sportsmensaccess.com). Sportmen’s Access Inc (SAI) is a membership-based portal featuring localized content for outdoor enthusiasts. The first release boasts a plethora of content and features and our content team is diligently working on building out the most comprehensive sporting database available.

SAI members receive detailed information about public and private lands available, outfitters and trips available plus localized tips on dining, eating, drinking. In addition, we have partnerships with a growing number of content editors who will be furnishing localized reports. Finally, our agreement with GCS Research provides a comprehensive mapping engine that features species density overlays for hunting/fishing districts and a dozen other views including Topo Maps.

Currently focused on indexing Montana’s tens of millions of acres of land, SAI will be expanding to a 15-state region this following year. Our custom-built content management system (built/designed by yours truly) will be refined ove this coming year and may eventually be licensed to other organizations or developing countries.

I’m pleased to announce that in our first two weeks live, we’ve already had over a dozen members registered. Knowing that over 1.4 million out-of-state licenses were issued to sportsmen in Montana last year alone, we are bullish on the rapid growth of SAI.

Chalk another Internet Business success story to the RSI Global family and enjoy what SAI has to offer.

The weather is now in the 50s and climbing so that means I have to break out the rakes, shovels and sledge hammers and continue with the outdoor projects. This weekend Jamie and I removed the old brick planter in front of the house and build a new planter using retaining wall block - it turned out pretty nice - see the photos below:

After the sledge hammer work and hauling away the brick planter.

We leveled sand and wetted it for a solid foundation

Jamie heading out back for another load of blocks.

Our second row seems level so we then cut some blocks in half to fill in where we staggered the blocks. Jamie’s dad let me use is masonry saw which did the trick.

Now Jamie gets to pick the flowers.

The lawns starting to green back up and soon we’ll replace fascia, soffit and gudders. Then we move onto the back of the house.

I’m pleased to say that employee number 1 is not myself, but is definitely adding value to the company. I have tasked him with completing some store setup/automation programs to allow me to take the next step in growing Goomzee Commerce, either reseller, area rep, affiliate or franchise marketing.

The new program will allow others to log in and create stores without any technical knowledge whatsoever. I’m looking forward to these improvements as they take us one step closer to 100% touchless account provisioning (automatic order, domain registration, credit card billing, server setup and now store setup).

I’m very please with progress and excited about the other tasks we’ll be tackling. In addition, I’m now able to wrap up a side project and allocate more time to new ventures.

Jamie’s dad, Joe, helped prep the bathroom and ripped up the carpet while I wrapped up the kitchen.

Okay I lied, it will take me two more days to finish and not one. I installed a new floor and baseboard and patched wallboard just to make everything in tip-top shape. As such, I need to return for one more half-day and touch up paint, plus install a new wax seal in the tank portion of the toilet.

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As my Missoula home project in ongoing, I have made more headway with my house in Stevensville. I bought the home for a friend who was moving back from California, with the option to buy. He and his wife’s business interests moved towards Missoula so they bought in Lolo, MT. As such, I’m wrapping up my remodel of that place and will be selling it.

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Well fellas, the ladies have spoken and it looks like for a company primary logo, the orange is preferred (even by me) given it stands out and is more exciting. Other products/services can leverage the various colors, and I’ve already received requests from some girls for Goomzee merchandise, in purple.

So, given these responses, I’m publishing the above graphic “Goomzee powered” which I will likely have made into some t-shirts, etc. I welcome any/all feedback and this week, I will transfer my files to a professional designer to “vectorize” the logo and also play around with a few more color options. On that note, if you’re looking for a great graphic, flash and logo resource, look no further than my buddy Travis Booher - Moto1Design.com.

Enjoy!

Like any of these? Goomzee is going to re-brand, re-invent and re-volutionize (ha ha) here after the first of the year. Our new logo will likely look like the following, supporting various colors for different products - which color should be our main logo?

Enjoy and feel free to send in your comments. For the people, by the people and of the people - that’s the way the Internet is going and Goomzee as well.

Upon returning to Montana, I purchased a couple homes and live in the smallest one. Given I primarily work from home and my hours vary, I wanted a place that I could put to use the skills I learned growing up and do a little remodeling. If it wasn’t adding rooms, siding, windows, hardwood floors or painting at my aunt’s home, I was helping my grandpa erect a new building, digging post holes or whatever else they had me do. I like creating things and working with my hands, so I thought why limit myself to a keyboard and mouse.

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